Silk Purse Espresso

Real espresso with a $79 Hamilton Beach machine from K-Mart?

Monday, March 13, 2006

Snatching Excellence From the Jaws of Mediocrity


Can you really get genuine Guinness-effect espresso extraction from a Hamilton Beach Cappuccino Plus (H-B) espresso machine?

Yes, but I'm not sure you should try.

Some background:

The H-B has a few desirable features:


  • 58 mm Portafilter (not crema-enhancing)
  • Ulka 41 Watt Pump
  • Removable Water Reservoir
  • Double Filter Basket
  • ESE Pod Filter Basket
  • Removable Shower Screen
  • Affordable
  • Readily Available - Walmart, K-mart, Kohl's, etc.

Here's a shot of the group head.

Now the undesirable "features":

  • Thermoblock Design
  • Wide Temperature Variation
  • Aluminum Portafilter
  • Low Cup Clearance
  • Short steam wand (steam stub is more accurate)

By far, the greatest hindrance to making decent espresso with the H-B is poor temperature control. The amount of hysteresis in the snap-action thermal switches is horrendous.

I've added a PID-based temperature controller to the H-B, with great success.

Disclaimer: Do not try this at home. Dangerous voltages are
present. This machine was not intended to be disassembled or modified.



Details:

  • Yokogawa UT150 PID Temperature Controller (Ebay $45)
  • Omega Stick-on Type-J Thermocouple (Ebay $6)
  • Opto-22 Solid-State Relay (Free from a friend-Thanks Rick)
  • Project Box, Wire, Fuse Holder (Radio Shack)

Here's a look inside. The twisted wiring and the brown thermocouple wire were added for the modification. The controller power comes from the conveniently provided terminal strip.

Taking the top off is not trivial. The two tamper-proof screws are hidden (and tamper-proof). The front of the top is held on with plastic tabs that can't be released once engaged.

Yes, permanent damage is required to get the lid off. Once I decided to drill mounting holes and make wiring changes, this became a moot point. The lid "snaps" back on with sufficient security that this has not been a problem.

This photo shows where I located the stick-on thermocouple near the water entry port on the thermoblock. The brass fitting is the pressure relief from the top of the thermoblock. The insulated line is the steam output. I used some high-temperature silicone adhesive to attach the thermocouple.

I wired the SSR in place of the "brew" thermoswitch as shown here. In the foreground is the steam thermoswitch. I change the setpoint on the controller instead of using the steam switch. More about that later. The steam thermoswitch acts as a safety in the event the control goes "open loop". There are two thermal fuses as well, but they are not resettable.

A view inside the controller housing. The aluminum lid provides adequate heat sink area for the SSR. It barely feels warm under use. I fused the power feed to the controller.

Here's the payoff.

This shot was a bit overextracted since I was trying to shoot photos at the same time. This is Sweet Maria's Monkey Espresso Blend home-roasted in a Toastmaster hot air popper. I've also had excellent results with Intelligentsia's Black Cat Espresso Blend. I use a Solis Maestro Plus grinder.

I have currently settled on a set-point of 212F for espresso. The indicator drops to about 207F by the end of a 25-second extraction. Actually, the temperature dips to about 205F and then recovers to 207F as the controller tries to keep up. I have not measured the actual brew temperature. I've just been experimenting and adjusting based on results.

I always pull a blank shot to heat up the filter basket and cup. By the time I dose and tamp, the temperature is back to 212F. This also quickly brings the temperature back down after steaming.

When steaming/frothing milk, I adjust the set-point to 255F. I crack the steam valve at about 245F to begin bleeding off collected water. If I let it stabilize at 255F for too long, the factory thermoswitch trips and I need to wait for the temperature to drop to 218F before it resets. As long as I continue to bleed off steam, the factory thermoswitch doesn't trip. I can froth enough milk for a 7 oz. cappuccino in about 60 seconds. I have also steamed continuously for over three minutes when making Vanilla Creams for my family with no apparent drop in pressure or temperature.

23 Comments:

  • At 12:36 AM, Blogger expressme said…

    I'm taking your advice!? found new at half price delivered.Will keep you posted.rp

     
  • At 8:04 PM, Blogger s_m_k said…

    But my advice was do not try this at home.

     
  • At 10:32 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    I just bought this machine as my first espresso machine. However, the extraction times for a double shot to produce 2-2.5 ounces are 47-50 seconds. I've heard this should take 25 seconds. Am I doing something wrong? Would better temperature control help?

     
  • At 10:47 PM, Blogger s_m_k said…

    Better temperature control would not correct this. Maybe your grind is too fine or you are tamping more than 30 lbs.

     
  • At 8:19 PM, Blogger thoughtfix said…

    That looks facinating. I am thinking of picking up this machine for myself on the way home from work - even without the mods, it'd be a GREAT improvement over my existing (terrible) espresso machine.

     
  • At 8:29 PM, Blogger expressme said…

    I bought it a few weeks ago and like it. Since I pull one double shot in the morning, I find that first pull to be very okif not great.
    Thanks for the info and perhaps the PID will go on my next machine a "real" espresso machine!
    Sincerely rp

     
  • At 11:04 PM, Blogger SM said…

    I have this machine also. I can pull decent shots from the Starbucks espresso pods, but the shots from fresh ground have no crema. I use the espresso blend from Second Cup in Canada. I have tried different grinds from fine to medium with no difference exept that the fine has too much grind in the shot. Would I get a better shot if I added a filter of some kind to the large basket in order to increase the pressure? Is there a different porta filter which increases pressure? I think that the Starbucks pod shots are better because the pod filter adds pressure causing the machine to push out the crema. What are your thoughts?

     
  • At 12:35 AM, Blogger LifeOfNathan said…

    Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you. I've bought my HB as an intro to espresso and just bought a PID but had been looking for some good info for PIDing a Thermal Block machine. I'll keep you posted (or if you like podcasts, then you can listen to my progress:-) http://bestmochalatte.podomatic.com/ )

     
  • At 2:49 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Hilarious! We've just purchased this machine, and it is AWFUL. Of course, no modifications such as yours should have to be made to get this thing to make decent espresso. We'll simply return it and say it's crap. But thanks for the entertaining and educational post.

     
  • At 8:09 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    I have been using my HB for a couple of years now and bought another one for work. It has its quirks but I actually prefer my HB lattes over buying one at Starbucks or Second Cup.

     
  • At 4:23 PM, Blogger Skyler Ray said…

    Sorry to bother you with specifics years after the blog was posted, but could you be specific with the specs on the relay? Perusing ebay leaves variables such as "60VDC 3.0AMP DC60S3" and "240D25-17 3-32VDC" which look the same as your unit. Thanks in advance!

     
  • At 11:21 PM, Blogger s_m_k said…

    Skyler,
    The solid-state relay needs to be able to switch 120VAC and handle the full current load with some over-rating to keep it from running too hot. The control input of the relay needs to match your temperature controller. You should look up the specs on the manufacturer's website. If you're unfamiliar with all of this, then please take my initial advice and don't try it.

    By the way, my original machine still looks exactly like the pictures and I still use it every day.

     
  • At 2:56 PM, Blogger Skyler Ray said…

    SMK,

    While it's just a little unfamiliar to me, I'm fortunate enough to have individuals who could set me straight should me tinkering not work. That and there are guides for PID'ing a silvia, which should work about the same.

    It's good to hear about the machine; I look forward to mine functioning in a similar manner. Thanks for the response.

     
  • At 9:59 AM, Blogger Skyler said…

    SMK,

    Just finished PID'ing my machine; thanks again for the inspiration. It's great having that control.

    Best,
    Skyler

     
  • At 11:35 PM, Blogger Rob said…

    What happened to your images? I mirrored them. Anyway, I just performed the PID modification by reading Murph's Sylvia page and and then studying your photographs (I have saved copies, will not redistribute without permission.)

    Just a small note, though: your machine, as photographed, won't power the PID (I knew that before I even started, since I have some background in electronics). I'm guessing you did that to keep people who don't know what they're doing from hurting themselves?

     
  • At 8:37 AM, Blogger s_m_k said…

    Rob,
    1) I don't see any problems with the pictures.

    2) My machine, as photographed, is powering the PID controller just fine. I'm not being deceptive. As I mention, the power for the controller comes from the terminal strip. See the red and white twisted wires? Really make sure you know what you are doing.

     
  • At 6:28 PM, Blogger Rob said…

    Well, on my machine, the terminals you have the power leads in are "ground" and "neutral". You don't have anything connected to live. (Not sure why the pictures aren't showing over here anymore. Could a fluky browser extension or something).

     
  • At 6:47 PM, Blogger Rob said…

    I guess what I'm saying is that you aren't supposed to connect the controller in a neutral-to-ground circuit, right? Won't that cause a ground fault?

     
  • At 8:18 AM, Blogger s_m_k said…

    Rob,
    My machine has a two-prong plug. Therefore, there is no separate ground and neutral.

    Really. Make sure you know what you are doing.

     
  • At 11:38 PM, Anonymous Burning Electronics said…

    I think this is a dead post. But I'd like to share my experience. I took my time to study the pictures taken of this modification. Found appropriate parts, actually ordered a PID and SSR from China. This PID works great most often no dip in temp during shot. When it does dip, it only dips by 1 degree Celsius. Steaming I've found that it keeps the temperature with little to no overshoot. Sure Electronics is where I bought it from. You get a probe type thermocouple with it, but you can't use it.

     
  • At 1:52 AM, Anonymous Jesse said…

    Do you know of any after market steam wands that are compatible with this machine or should I really stop sinking money into this machine and finally upgrade(I've already installed a PID,bottomless portafilter, added red super bright LED(even I dont know why I did that)

     
  • At 1:20 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    well it all seems a little dangerous, what do you think of just cutting a little whole in the top and shooting the thermoblock with a surface temp gauge, while manually adjusting temp with the steam button....no wiring! ?

     
  • At 1:29 PM, Blogger s_m_k said…

    My modification on my machine was not dangerous because:
    - I have significant experience in electronics and electrical wiring
    - I understand the circuitry inside the machine
    - I used appropriate components that were rated for the conditions of use

    My advice still stands though: Don't try this if you don't know what you are doing.

     

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